When people learn that I’ve visited more than ninety countries, they typically will ask, “Which was your favorite?” It’s not an easy question to answer—until I think of Jordan. Unlike anywhere else I traveled, Jordan offered me something rare: not just ancient wonders and breathtaking landscapes, but an education in deep-rooted Arab hospitality towards guests.
A Journey That Began in Exile
In 1979, political turmoil in Iran unexpectedly set me free to wander. I had been working there for 18 months until the Revolution forced us expats to leave. Instead of flying home, I set off on an unscripted journey across the Middle East—Turkey, Greece, Israel, Egypt and Syria. A chance encounter in Cairo with a fellow traveler changed my plans when he recommended a detour to Jordan. “It’s safe, affordable, and unforgettable,” he said. That was enough for me. I bought a one-way ticket to Amman.
First Impressions of Amman
Amman, the capital, surprised me with its broad, clean boulevards and cream-colored stone buildings glowing in the sun, so unlike any architecture found in my Southern California homeland. Wandering the streets, I met Abdul Fatah, a young man whose simple act of kindness changed everything. My simple request for directions to the post office led him to accompany me there, after which he insisted: “You must stay with my family. You are our guest.”
Naturally, I hesitated, but both a hotel manager and even a local policeman reassured me this was safe to do as part of their Jordanian custom. That evening, I was driven into the hills a half hour west of Amman to the town of As-Salt, where I was embraced by Abdul’s uncle Ibrahim, his wife, their children, and extended family. What I thought might be a brief visit became a month-long immersion.
Life Inside a Jordanian Home
The rhythm of life in As-Salt was unlike anything I knew. Each day revolved around lunch or dinner visits to friends or relatives all over town, always followed by endless cups of strong coffee poured from an ornate brass pot into tiny cups. To refuse a refill, guests shook the empty cup gently in the air. All of the men–no women allowed–sat in one of the chairs arranged along the walls of the otherwise empty “visitors room.”
Hospitality was not a performance for tourists; it was a way of life. Whenever I tried to offer my hosts money, they frowned and said, “You are our guest. There is no thanks for duty.”
The Jordanian generosity extended beyond my family and friends in As-Salt. Hitchhiking around Jordan, I was never left standing long. Drivers not only gave me rides but often invited me home for dinner. For a solo traveler, the country felt both safe and disarmingly welcoming.
Exploring Jordan’s Treasures
From my base in As-Salt, I explored a country that feels like an open-air museum of human history. Jordan, as I discovered, is a jewel of travel destination for anyone interested in Roman ruins, old Arab castles and the most famous historic site of all: the magic pink city of Petra. My travels took to me to places that were simply unforgettable:
- Jerash – sprawling Roman ruins, colonnaded streets, and amphitheaters that rival anything in Italy.
- Kerak and Azraq Castles – stone fortresses whispering tales of Crusaders and desert outposts.
- The Dead Sea – floating weightless in its otherworldly waters.
- Aqaba – a lively Red Sea port with coral reefs and Ottoman history.
- Petra – the legendary “rose-red city” carved into rock, a place I had dreamed of since childhood.
- Wadi Rum – the desert of Lawrence of Arabia, where sand, sky, and silence merge in epic scale.
A Marriage in a Week
Perhaps the most surprising memory came not from ruins or landscapes, but from my quiet friend Awad, Ibrahim’s brother. When I left for a short trip to Syria, he was single, bookish, and shy. When I returned one week later, he was married.
He explained, with shining eyes, how he had glimpsed a young woman in the market and arranged to meet her family. After a few formal visits, and the negotiation of a dowry, they were wed. Awad showed me a small black-and-white photograph of his new wife. “She is the most wonderful woman,” he said simply, beaming. His happiness reminded me how quickly life can transform.
Lessons From Jordan
When I finally moved on, I left feeling nourished in ways I hadn’t expected. Jordan had offered me not just its ancient wonders, but its living culture—the generosity of strangers, the embrace of family, and the rare feeling of being honored simply for being a guest.
So when I’m asked, “Which country was your favorite?” my answer comes easily. Jordan was more than a destination. It was an embrace, a reminder that sometimes the most unforgettable journeys are not the ones we plan, but the ones that welcome us in.
This story was submitted to Bestway Tours & Safaris which specializes in Jordan tours.
